" ...though we travel the world to find the beautiful,
we must carry it with us, or we find it not "
Emerson (1803-1882)

Tuesday, July 03, 2012

Summer, Kokelv, Finnmark

I have moved up in the world - literally.  Meaning, I have employment for the summer, and its location is two days driving north of Tromsø, in a wee village called Kokelv.  It is a modest summer guide job.   But I am happy with it.

Yes, I am proud to have this job - perched on the edge of Norway's Northwestern tip, with a rich, living history to learn about and to - try! - and share with others who visit.  Home to the Coastal Sami people of the northern reaches of Norway, Finland and Sweden, I get to guide curious tourists round a classic 1950's farmhouse which has been preserved in an almost original state. Full of historical objects some of which relate to the Sami culture, and some of which, well, you might find them back home in Blighty (great old classics like churns and hand-wound milk separators).  The startling and grotesque history of Northern Norway under German occupation is also a very important story to be told. I am reading madly to become up to date on facts, but the most prominent war-time moment (after, of course, occupation itself) is when the Nazis departed.  Local people were forced to evacuate their homes, and then the Germans left, as abruptly as they came.  They caused terrible damage on their exit from Northern Norway, as they burnt and destroyed all and everything as they went, (to leave nothing for Russia or allied forces). This forced mass emigration of the local population.  Although some few people escaped (or tried to) to the hills, the vast majority moved southwards, as refugees in their own land, and with nothing left to come back to...

Hence the 1950's farmhouse: there's literally no earlier examples of pre-war houses left.



So, there's a decidedly dramatic war history that shapes the place, and the society today.  And I guess I was curious to learn more about this, and how the Sami people adapted on their return north.

Not least Kokelv is a truly beautiful location, with wide open uplands, (the trees in N Norway get considerably smaller and fewer up here ;)), broad empty valleys, post-glacial raised beaches and craggy plateaus... Yes, I have itchy feet just describing this!

So, here is where Dovre and I find ourselves, for summer.



..oh! and the weather is decidely 'mixed',  shall we say.   The Gulf Stream Hits Northern Norway's Tip.... need I say more! Sunshine, showers and the odd mosquito when the wind finally calms.... ;))

And here's a video link to wet your appetites:
(click and paste this URL link)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=D8-lM7MtxZc&feature=youtu.be

Location of film: 'The cairn', Weather: 'windy and fair', Time: 'about 1am, midnightsuntime' :)

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3 comments:

Anonymous said...

It looks stunning. Love the 50's furniture - very fashionable these days! Have fun, catch up soon. Tabs x

Helen Jewell said...

he he. that was quick! thanks Tabs - seems you're happy I updated ;) hope you are all fine x enjoy summer and Olympic Fever back in Blighty. For better or worse, brings out the best in some of us, to be a United Nation :)

Ane Elene Johansen said...

Åh! For et fint hus! Og stua! sånn vil jeg ha det! Åh :)